Southern Appalachian Herbs: From The Omnivore's Guide to Home Cooking: Fats

Fats, especially animal fats, are both essential to cooking and to human health. Does that statement shock you? In June of 2014, Time Magazine published an article entitled, “Ending The War On Fat.” This came as a great shock to many. But, for those of us who follow the Weston A. Price Foundation and the works of Sally Fallon, it was merely a reiteration of what we already knew. The “Heart Healthy” or so called, “Mediterranean Diet '' (which is absolutely not the diet of those who live in Mediterranean countries) is misguided and based on total fraud. The whole thing was started by a conman.

This “doctor” was a pure “snake oil” salesmen who had been frequently investigated for fraudulent cures. But, when he published supposed studies saying that a diet low in animal fats and proteins could prevent heart disease, the medical establishment seized on it. It later came out that he had faked all of his research and the “Mediterranean Diet” that he claimed to observe in his travels was the diet practiced in Catholic countries during Lent! As a practicing Catholic, I can explain that during Lent we do not eat meat. Before the teaching documents known as Vatican Two were published, Catholics ate no meat, eggs, animal fats or sugar during Lent and usually drank less alcohol. He observed people living on lentils, fish and olive oil and reported to mostly Protestant America that the key to health was to follow that diet. Whether he was ignorant or lying, the truth is that the true diet practiced in most Mediterranean countries is heavy on fish and olive oil, but they also eat lots of pork and lamb, amazing cured salamis and ham, they drink lots of wine (much more than the average American), smoke tobacco more than the average American, love fatty foods, salt, eggs and fried pastries.

My great grandparents and their ancestors mostly lived into their 90s and were strong, healthy and robust until the end. They worked hard in the sun. They had large families. They ate far more pork and fats like lard and butter than most modern Americans. Some used tobacco and drank homemade liquor. Some fought in wars and most all endured many hardships. None followed the Heart Healthy diet. Since the introduction of that diet, heart disease, arteriosclerosis, diabetes, cancer and obesity have become epidemic. Americans are dying at much younger ages than our ancestors of even a few generations ago, even though they receive far more “medical care” and take far more medications than their ancestors.

I am not a nutritionist or a doctor. But, as a man with common sense and as one who has done a great deal of research, I will state boldly that in my opinion the Heart Healthy diet not only does not work, but is killing people. Our medical establishment knows that margarine, vegetable oil and vegetable shortening are toxic, but they still recommend a low fat diet using such artificial fats, along with a little olive oil. Olive oil is wonderful, if it is cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil and not extracted through heat and chemical means. But, it is also expensive. The medical establishment and government bureaucracies have doomed generations to poor health and lousy food. I know they will protest when they read this, but the truth is that with all the advancements in medicine over the last 50 years, with all the new drugs and “wellness checks”, with Americans spending more time receiving more medical “care” than ever before, the American lifespan has shortened in recent years. The sad truth is that the leading cause of death in America is not heart attack or cancer, car accidents or shootings… it is the combination of medical error, malpractice, over-prescription and medical abuse. And that, does not even include bad dietary advice.

Natural fat does not make you fat. Calories from far are burned or stored just like any other calories. Fats are essential for brain health, hormone production, immunity and the health of every organ and function in the human body. Fats are not the enemy. Do your own research into fats and you will find that low cholesterol is far more dangerous than high cholesterol.

The fats I use are mainly butter and lard. Butter comes from cow’s milk and lard is rendered pig fat. Non-hydrolyzed lard is far better for you than that you find on store shelves, but you will likely have to buy that from someone who raises and processes their own pigs. Mr. Herter recommended beef fat for all frying. I rarely have enough beef fat on hand to deep fry, but I do save all I have to use when I can. To save fat, you simply drain it out of the pan in which you cooked meat and store it in a container, covered, in the refrigerator. Fats oxidize when exposed to air, but my grandmother never refrigerated the bacon grease she saved in a can on the stove from most every breakfast. That was one of her primary fats and she used it quickly enough that it never spoiled. Bacon fat is wonderful! Fatback was another primary fat she used, and so do I. Fatback is simply salt cured, dried pork fat. Chicken fat is the beloved schmaltz of central/eastern European and Jewish folks. I certainly enjoy using chicken fat. My absolute favorite - and what may be the healthiest fat of all - is duck or goose fat. Bear fat was the primary fat used in Appalachia not long ago. All of these are delicious, nutritious and far preferable to most plant-based fats.

As for plant-based fats, olive oil is the only one I use regularly. I rarely like to fry in olive oil. I mainly reserve it for salad dressing, to dip bread in and to drizzle over both raw and cooked vegetables. Other nut and seed oils are also tasty and healthy - walnut oil, almond oil, flax seed oil, etc. One I do use, that is not terribly expensive is sesame oil - that is essential for a lot of Asian dishes and very good for the liver. Sunflower oil is also very good. I hope to buy some more land soon and begin growing black oil sunflowers. My plan is to begin pressing my own sunflower oil then. In the meantime, I still have to buy some oil for frying. I used to use canola (rape seed) or corn oil, but the market has become dominated by genetically modified canola and corn, that is soaked in chemicals such as Round Up. I no longer feel safe using them. For now, I believe peanut oil to be a slightly more safe alternative. It has a high smoke point and works well for deep frying.

Whatever fat you choose, make sure it is fresh and naturally made from natural sources. Of course, one should not over indulge in anything - “Moderation in all things.” But, I believe that Julia Child said, “Butter makes everything better.” I certainly agree! A special treat is marrow butter. When we roast beef bones for stock, the fatty marrow renders and softens. This is very rich. Some people like it plain. But, I prefer to blend it with softened butter, salt and herbs like parsley, chives, tarragon, thyme and garlic. Marrow butter, spread on toast or a nice steak is absolutely profound.

Compound butters are simply softened butter into which herbs have been mixed. They are then chilled and used as needed.